I spent three weeks in the United Kingdom, including one full week exploring North Wales with my wife, daughter, niece and two nephews. I went into that week without a detailed understanding of everything we would see. That turned out to be part of what made it such a memorable trip.
Wales gave us mountain scenery, historic towns, castles, traditional pubs, local breweries and roads that sometimes felt barely wide enough for our vehicle. We also swam in crystal-clear mountain pools, watched military aircraft fly over our cottage and spent an evening looking at a meteor shower from the back garden.
My favorite part was not one attraction. It was having the time and freedom to explore.
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Our Cottage in Waunfawr
Our base for the week was an Airbnb cottage in Waunfawr, a village near Caernarfon and Eryri National Park. With six people traveling together, choosing the right place to stay made a major difference.
The cottage had a large, immaculate kitchen and a fantastic stove. Instead of eating every meal in a restaurant, we could shop locally, cook together and have all six of us around one table. Those shared meals became an important part of the trip. Especially seeing how my niece had just gotten married and we all were there to celebrate.
One night, we stepped into the back garden and watched a meteor shower overhead. It was completely unplanned and became one of those small travel moments that none of us will forget.
The other surprise came during the day. Military aircraft regularly flew over the area, including fighter jets, cargo aircraft and propeller planes. We did not know the aircraft types, but we did not need to. Seeing and hearing them cross the Welsh landscape throughout the day gave us an experience unlike anything we expected from the cottage.
Waunfawr is not technically inside the Mach Loop, which is farther south between Dolgellau and Machynlleth. However, much of Wales forms part of a military low-flying training area, and RAF Valley operates from Anglesey. We took a ride to Anglesey, parked right at the runway and had a great show! On the day of our visit, I would have to guess that we were watching pilots train in the Texan T MK1.
**ATTENTION**
I have no affiliation with the owner of the cottage. Our stay there was so comfortable and convenient that I wanted to share the link. My biggest complaint about the property was the hot water in the main house would be used up pretty quickly when running laundry, dishwasher and multiple showers. The owner states this in the housing manual but we went through hot water quicker than we anticipated.
Swimming in the Watkin Path Pools
Hiking to the pools along the Watkin Path was one of my favorite activities of the week. The Watkin Path is one of the routes up Yr Wyddfa, the mountain also known in English as Snowdon, but you do not have to hike to the summit to enjoy this area.
We took the maintained footpath up rather than the steeper farm road, which we took on the way down. The path was easy to follow, but the steady incline made the walk strenuous. You can complete it at a reasonable pace if you stop when needed and give yourself time to rest.
Reaching the pools made the climb worth it. The water was crystal clear, cold and refreshing. We swam in the pools surrounded by the mountain landscape. This was not just a stop for a photograph. It was one of the best experiences of our week.
If you plan to swim, wear shoes with good grip and expect slippery rocks near the water. The conditions can also change quickly in the mountains, so bring layers even if the day starts warm.
Exploring Eryri and Its Villages
Eryri National Park, commonly called Snowdonia in English, covers far more than one mountain. Driving through the park revealed valleys, lakes, stone buildings and villages that encouraged us to stop and look around.
Beddgelert
Beddgelert was one of the villages we visited. We walked through the village and ate at the Prince Llewelyn. Places like this helped make the trip feel connected to Wales rather than built only for visitors. The stone buildings, surrounding mountains and local pubs created the setting I had hoped to find.
Betws-y-Coed
We also spent time in Betws-y-Coed, a village surrounded by woodland on the eastern side of Eryri. It is a popular base for exploring the park, but it was also worth visiting on its own. We enjoyed walking around, seeing the town and taking in another part of the region.
Parc Padarn
Parc Padarn gave us another view of the landscape around Eryri. The park surrounds Llyn Padarn near Llanberis and combines lake views with the area’s slate-mining history. It was another example of how natural scenery and Welsh history appear together throughout North Wales. You can also rent Kayaks right on site for a affordable cost and ride a working steam train into the center of town!
Castles, Shopping and Pubs in Caernarfon
Caernarfon was close enough to Waunfawr for us to explore its castles, historic streets, shops and pubs. Castell Caernarfon dominates the waterfront and makes the town’s medieval history impossible to miss.
After seeing the castle, we spent time shopping around Canol Tref, the town center. We also visited the Black Boy Inn, a historic inn within Caernarfon’s old town walls. Sitting in an old Welsh pub after walking around the castle felt like a natural extension of the day rather than a separate attraction.
The Welsh steak pies were fantastic. They were exactly the kind of filling meal that worked after a day spent walking and exploring.
Welsh Beer, Breweries and Pant Du Vineyard
North Wales has a strong local beer scene. We visited Cwrw Llŷn Brewery and Bragdy Lleu Brewery, Snowdonia Brewery, and we also stopped at Pant Du Vineyard for afternoon tea and drinks.
Welsh beer was one of the food and drink highlights of the trip. Many pubs serve traditional cask ales. American visitors should know that cask beer is served at cellar temperature rather than ice cold. That is intentional, not a problem with the pub.
Some of the beers also have a higher alcohol content than you might expect, so check the strength before ordering another pint. Trying the local ales was part of experiencing Wales, but they can catch up with you.
One of the coolest parts of the trip is when we visited Bragdy Lleu. Grant, the barkeep, took the time to explain to us why the beers were named the way they were. Names after Welsh folklore, and the stories that went along with them.
Tŷ Coch Inn and the North Wales Coast
Tŷ Coch Inn gave us a different type of Welsh pub experience. Located beside the beach at Porthdinllaen on the Llŷn Peninsula, it requires a walk from the parking area. That approach is part of the appeal. You leave the road behind and arrive at a pub facing the water.
We also visited Llandudno Pier and spent time on Anglesey. While on Anglesey, we saw more aircraft connected with the nearby air base. North Wales packs beaches, seaside towns, mountain scenery and aviation into a relatively small region, but the drives between them can take longer than the mileage suggests.
A Welcome to Wrexham Visit
I watch Welcome to Wrexham, so visiting Wrexham was a personal addition to the trip. We went to the Racecourse Ground, known in Welsh as the Cae Ras, and visited The Turf pub beside the stadium.
Seeing both locations in person added context to the television series. The stadium and pub are not isolated television sets. They are part of the city and its football community. Even without attending a match, it was worth making the stop as a fan of the show.
Driving in North Wales
I did not drive during our week. My nephew lives in England and had experience driving on the left and handling British roads. I was glad he took the wheel.
Many roads in North Wales are narrow, especially when you are traveling in a people mover large enough for six passengers. Some roads have stone walls, limited shoulders and sections where two larger vehicles cannot comfortably pass.
If you are visiting from the United States, do not judge travel time by distance alone. A short route on the map can take longer because of narrow roads, villages, livestock or the need to stop and let another vehicle pass. Renting the smallest vehicle that comfortably fits your group and luggage can make the trip easier.
Understanding the Welsh Language
Welsh was difficult for us to read and pronounce. Place names such as Betws-y-Coed, Beddgelert and Cwrw Llŷn do not sound the way an American visitor might first expect.
That did not create a major barrier. Road signs and visitor information were commonly shown in Welsh and English. Taking time to learn the correct names and asking for help with pronunciation made the experience more interesting. The Welsh language is not a tourist feature. It is a living part of the country’s culture and identity.
Photos From Our Week in Wales
These photographs show some of the mountains, villages, historic sites, pubs and family moments from our week.
What I Would Tell Someone Planning a Week in North Wales
- Choose one well-located base instead of changing accommodations every night.
- Allow more driving time than the mileage suggests.
- Bring sturdy shoes and layers for mountain walks.
- Do not limit Eryri to climbing Yr Wyddfa. The villages, lakes and shorter walks deserve time.
- Try a local cask ale, but check its alcohol content.
- Leave open time in your schedule. Some of our best experiences were unexpected.
Would I Return to Wales?
Absolutely. I arrived without knowing how much we would find and left feeling that one week had only introduced us to North Wales.
The history was everywhere, but the trip never felt like a week spent moving between museums. We experienced it through castles, villages, pubs, local food, the Welsh language and the landscape itself. Add swimming in the Watkin Path pools, military aircraft over our cottage and a meteor shower shared with family, and Wales gave us a week unlike any other trip we have taken.
If North Wales is on your travel list, I can help you turn places like these into an itinerary that fits your interests, pace and travel group.
